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August 19, 2004     Mifflinburg Telegraph
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photo provided House on Strawbridge Rd., is open for tours on Sunday . to4 p.m. The Union County Historical Society invites the public to c. 1793 limestone house where tours include the first floor public library and the original 1793 kitden. Three new interactive provide narrations on different aspects of the House's history immigration to Union County, slavery and the Underground l eddition, there is a Dairy Exhibit ofphotographs and artifacts from the including milk bottles, from.the Wehr collection recently donated There is still time to see the exhibit on Invasive Plants, designed by board member, Clyde Peeling. Further information may be the Historical Society office at 524-8666. dental health associates VIEWS ON. DENTAL HEALTH DR, STEVEN C. MILLER OR. GREGORY SWENSON DR. CLAYTON O. PESILLO OR. JEFFREY G. BELL "Creating smiles is our business." GIVE YOURSELF A CHECK-OUT other people see you when you open your mouth to smile? For that matter, how do you look when your closed? To find out, give yourself the mirror test. Take a at the appearance of your-- hopefully-- pearly whites. teeth out of alignment? Are there gaps that show from teeth? Do you have any discolored teeth or-unattractive ,MI of these conditions can be corrected and improved. If a Problem with your gums, they can be made healthier, mouth and smile are always an asset. When your gums not only look good but are healthy, too, the sat- goes even deeper. Ask your dentist what can be done to he appearance of your mouth and smile. You may be SUrprised to find that some problems may even be cor- ane office visit. A Public service to promote a better dental health environment. IV2 Broadway Road 742-9607 Main Street 837-5117 Street 966-1280 MIFFLINBURG TELEGRAPH, August 19, 2004--7 i i ,i i By Kay Jones Penn State Master Gardener 00--reen T0000humb "0000orner Shade Gardening i II When I began flower gardening, I stud- ied the niches of my property to find those ,precious areas that could be categorized as having "full sun." I thought they were the only places I could create a truly lush gar- den because there are so many more sun- loving than shade-loving flowers. As time passed, my sunlit areas filled up and I inevitably turned my sights on my shady back yard. Through trial and error, I have formed a strong opinion about starting shade gar- dens. Don't worry about flowers. Concentrate on the sculptural form, tex- ture, and shades of green (and other hues) of shade-tolerant foliage plants first. Add flowers last. I started shade gardening thinking that only rhododendrons, azaleas, pachysan- dr'a, ivy and of course, the omnipresent impatiens would grow in shade! I planted many of those, throwing in some Japanese painted ferns along the way and allowing moss to spread wherever it wanted. Surprisingly, things took shape, but with a commonplace look. I began to enjoy the peace and calm of my shady nook more than any other spot in my garden. After reading about shade plants, I learned that many of them possess won- derful foliage, but not spectacular flowers. So I concentrated on a build-up of plants with varied greens (and cher foliage col- ors), textures, and sculptural forms that did not involve flowers at all. In addition to the old stand-by rhodo- dendrons and azaleas, I planted small- leaved hollies like "Black Beauty" and Border Gem" with prickly texture and shiny green color, yews with a needlelike texture and dark green color, boxwood with a smooth texture and medium green color, Mahonia aquafolium with medium green hue, texture and height, Pieris japonica with unusual leaves, rough tex- ture, and medium height. Many types of hosta brought instant texture and mass to deep shade areas. Smaller plants included Epimedium x rubrum (red veins/light gtn leaves) in a deep shade comer. (There are many vail- eties of epimedium, a little known plant, with a wealth of leaf color and texture.) Tiarella or foam flower, with deeply veined foliage, was added for a real atten- tion-getter. The many new varieties of Heuchera were tucked into shady spots where their leaves outshine their flowers in shades of green, copper, burgundy, and mottled combinations in-between. Japanese Painted Fern still holds a place of honor. I also included tiny textures like "Baby's Tears", mosses, and creeping chamomile. New varieties of coleus pro- vide bright color combinations that are hard to beat. The examples I've just mentioned are just a sampling of shade-tolerant foliage plants that can be used to build up the "bones" of a shade garden. There are liter- "ally hundreds more mentioned in any gar- den book wot*,.h its weight. The idea is that a beautiful shade garden can be achieved in a short time by concentrating first on plantings that emphasize form, texture, and color of foliage. Make use of the myr- iad greens and other foliage hues available among shade tolerant plants. Don't rush for the impatiens and pachysandra, though they have their place. Look for other shrubs that provide sculptural inter- est in addition to azalea and rhododen- dron. Scour the garden centers for multi- ple textures of shade-tolerant foliage then turn to flowers for additional color or form. You may be surprised to learn just how little color is absolutely necessary and to learn that white flowers work best because of their reflective quality. Happily, there are quite a few shade-loving flowers. Always check the level of shade tolerance they are supposed to have (deep/light/semi-shade) and try to plant accordingly. No matter how many flowers you add to the shade garden, you will find their bloom time is fleeting--- all the more rea- son to rely upon the lasting beauty of tex- tural foliage. Now, five years after starting my shade garden, I fred that I am glad I ran out of "full sun." --Kay Jones is a Penn State Master Gardener  Northumberland Coumy. Many sizes to choose from - 80/Ib